Konya, in a-whirl of their own
We t ‘s the cardio out-of Chicken. Konya, a community off a million souls, leg squats smack in Anatolia’s wild ordinary, surrounded by discover, endless prairie. Turkey’s extremely culturally conventional area, Konya looks to start with to get a location regarding rigorous headscarves and foreboding beards, regarding ostentatiously observed pieties and you will forbidden beers. However, uncovering Konya is straightforward – for here, at the heart of your old area, in his tomb out-of turquoise ceramic tiles, are Jelaluddin Rumi.
Rumi is just one of the planet’s very read poets. Throughout the their lives, and because his dying for the 1273, pilgrims attended to Konya. Now, Rumi’s tomb are Turkey’s second extremely-went along to visitors attraction following Topkapi Castle into the Istanbul. His followers manage (nevertheless manage) remove themselves in the hypnotic trance and you can dancing, often rotating instance tops from day to night.
These types of whirling dervishes are actually new symbol from Turkey’s tourism strategies, and you can sip beverage on the Istanbul lodge reception viewing particular poor bloke from inside the a tall beige thought cap spinning to possess their enjoyment. To your real deal, regardless of if, been heree to Konya and you arrived at Turkey’s soul. From inside the Rumi’s conditions:
Discover a large, unbelievable brand new municipal auditorium in which so it delicate spinning people ballet try did, and you may people level of pleasant shiny-eyed mystics from inside the carpet shop, cafes and you can gothic bazaars, all of the delighted to help you receive that an exclusive zikhr
«Whoever you are, become Even though you may be An infidel, a beneficial pagan, otherwise a beneficial fireworshipper, been Our very own brotherhood isn’t certainly one of despair Though you provides damaged The vows from repentance one hundred minutes, already been.»
Almost every 12 months just like the 1983, I have been future on two billion-or-therefore visitors just who check out Konya per year. Most are Turkish, many Iranians (exactly who claim Rumi since their individual, since the guy composed in their words and you can grew up in east Persia) as well as make pilgrimage.
In the place of making Konya a stop to the a bus trip, I recommend staying for many months, soaking up an impact, dinner the Turkey’s finest mutton, seeing the ideal Seljuk tissues and you can – maybe – falling crazy about Rumi. You can fly inside cheaply from Istanbul, from where there’s also good scruffy, atmospheric show, otherwise appear by road. Konya is actually effortless reach of one’s cavern dwellers and you can carpet sellers regarding Cappadocia.
Rumi arrived here as good child, when Konya got started a community for a few,000 age. It actually was established by Hittites, who have been been successful by Phrygians, then your Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, the fresh leaders of Pergamon as well as the Romans, which called the put Iconium. Saints Paul and Barnabus one another preached here, but by the 1071 new Seljuks, an effective Turcoman group, was in control, as well as their architectural legacy suffers.
The Karatay Medrese regarding 1251 are a masterpiece off ornate tiling and you will harmonious domes. It is now brand new Museum out-of Ceramic tiles and you will Ceramics, whoever information take care of the vibrancy and you will strike they’d when earliest discharged. Nearby, the brand new Ince Minarali Medrese is now the Museum of Brick and Timber Sculpture, and that’s way less inactive than simply We have made it sound. These buildings whet urge for food to discover the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, therefore the eye-popping Sahip Ata mosque: in the place of much of this new Muslim industry, within the Poultry you’re motivated to head to mosques, any your spiritual tastes.
On junction of the old city and its particular unattractive the new neighbor ‘s the Alaaddin mosque, the latest city’s vantage section, whose breathtaking black pulpit and you will sensitive and painful prayer-niche come from 1155 (the latest cutting-edge is actually completed in 1221). This new boulevard radiating from this point provides you to Rumi’s tomb, where far more after. Rumi can Turks since Mevlana (the fresh Sainted One), and today Konya is in thrall so you can Mevlanamania.
Rumi is a mystical, good Sufi saint exactly who liked most of the religions, and whoever own faith is actually love
Once i first appeared, Mevlana’s followers, this new Mevlevi, was indeed a banned organization, accepted only for its «folkloric dancing» and you may whirlings. Group meetings took place secretly, illegally.
I pointed out eating, as well. Konya’s lamb-centric food is superb. Etli ekmek is a lengthy, thin roll-upwards pizza pass on which have delicately spiced mince, and you will Konya kebab was a lamb shank, really more sluggish roasted and you can supported toward a support out of bread that have a sweet yellow onion. The number one was at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. Zero 5, +ninety 332 352 85 47), whoever soups and you may homemade yoghurt is actually eden-generated.
Thus, perfectly provided, along with of several glasses of nice tannic teas inside you, build your treatment for Rumi’s tomb. Your join the awestruck, the new interested and the fervent. A mystical twinkly light takes on to your tombs from Rumi and you will his supporters. The fresh wall space are stitched with calligraphy, and also the ceilings is actually a beneficial kaleidoscope out-of wonderfully done arabesques. Rumi’s tomb is covered into the vastly stitched content away from silver, and you can seems to shine white and you may tranquility and you will compassion.
A Jesus hot girls few of their other pilgrims tend to read Korans, while others Rumi’s poetry. Very grab pictures, although this is purely taboo. There are individuals who weep silently, and people who laugh out loud; people that meditate all the time, and those who rush thanks to. Are common went, to have we have found love.
To experience on the side and you will insinuating in itself in the consciousness ‘s the ney, an effective reed flute. It may sound like breathy sky, but is truly the sound out of fire, and this increases and you will drops in to the us. This is not particular sullen religious moaning, nevertheless sound out of wanting, out-of communion, of your heart. You’ve got it – it is soul music, therefore really sends you. Thus become.
Turkish Air companies (020-7471 6666) flies so you’re able to Konya via Istanbul out-of Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and you can Manchester, regarding ?219 rtn inc taxation. Istanbul so you can Konya by train will cost you from around ?24 get back, or about ?36 come back by shuttle. Lodge Balikcilar possess rooms or around ?70 (and just have caters to cold beers). Resort Dergah (+90 332 351 76 61) room around ?20. Entry to see the whirling dervishes is clear of the newest tourist place of work, about Mevlana’s tomb. Mete Horzum at the SeleneTour (+ninety 532 564 9192, ) organizes individual whirling and zikhr off ?30pp.